If there’s one sweet treat that truly represents Madrid in May, it’s the rosquilla del santo – San Isidro’s doughnut. As the city celebrates its patron saint, San Isidro Labrador, bakeries across the capital fill up with these ring-shaped pastries, steeped in centuries of tradition, timeless flavour, and the very essence of Madrid’s identity.
A tradition with history (and a hint of legend)
While these doughnuts may now seem like a simple local delicacy found at fairs and neighbourhood bakeries, their origins go back much further. Their roots can be traced all the way to the Roman Empire, when similar recipes were common throughout the Mediterranean. But it was in Madrid where this treat found its true form, largely thanks to a legendary figure who has become part of the city’s folklore: Tía Javiera.
According to local tales, Tía Javiera – originally from Fuenlabrada or Villarejo de Salvanés – would travel to Madrid each year to sell her rosquillas during the San Isidro pilgrimage at the Pradera. Her secret? A splash of aguardiente in the dough and a glaze that was left to dry before tying the rosquillas together with twine. Though she had no children, many claimed to be her culinary heirs, keeping her recipe – and her spirit – alive to this day.
Four styles, one madrileño heart
In May, bakery shelves in Madrid become a showcase of four distinct types of rosquillas, each with its own personality:
Tontas: the plainest of them all, with no decoration – simple yet beautifully textured. Don’t let the name fool you.
Listas: cheerful and sweet, covered in a glaze of sugar, lemon, and egg white. Their signature yellow hue is a symbol of celebration.
Santa Clara: topped with a crisp white meringue. This variety is said to have originated at the Monastery of the Visitation.
Francesas: the most elegant of the bunch, sprinkled with crushed almonds and sugar. Created for Queen Bárbara de Braganza, they’re a royal treat.
They all share a common dough, but their different finishes offer a variety of textures and flavours. Though traditionally enjoyed on 15 May, many locals can’t resist indulging in them all through spring.
A recipe with a madrilène soul
Want to try making them at home? Here’s a simple baked version of San Isidro’s rosquillas you can prepare in your own kitchen:
Ingredients
250g eggs
20ml extra virgin olive oil
35g sugar
50g strong flour
200g plain flour
15g anise seeds
Method
Whisk all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes. Then, using a piping bag (or rolling out the dough and cutting circles with round moulds), shape the rings and brush them with beaten egg. Bake at 180–200 °C for around 12–15 minutes, until the top begins to crack slightly. For a traditional twist, glaze them with sugar, lemon, and egg white to make them listas, or finish them with a dry meringue for the Santa Clara version.
And don’t forget – if you fry them and tie them up with twine, you’re paying homage to none other than Tía Javiera herself.
A sweet stroll down Gran Vía
May is the perfect time to savour Madrid. With local festivities, buzzing streets and unforgettable flavours, the rosquillas del santo are a delicious excuse to wander through the city centre, visit Plaza Mayor, explore Retiro Park, or enjoy a musical along Gran Vía. And what better way to do it than by staying right in the heart of it all?
At Hotel Sterling, we welcome you with an exceptional location, just steps from everything that makes Madrid so special. Relax in our charming rooms, enjoy our buffet breakfast, and experience May like a true madrileño.
at
Hotel Sterling
today and discover the sweetest side of Madrid.